The Main Characteristics of Biodynamic Wine

Biodynamic wines are made exclusively from agricultural methods that follow the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, the founder of anthroposophy and Waldorf education, and author of eight lectures published in 1924 under the title "Scientific-Spiritual Impulses for the Advancement of Agriculture". The lectures focus on the necessity of preserving soil fertility, taking into account the spiritual forces and vital energies that, according to a holistic and theosophical vision, are infused in nature and in lifeless matter. From the practices and techniques proposed by Steiner, in order to guarantee the balance of the ecosystem and raise the value of the products, an innovative and virtuous form of agriculture was born, which is extremely respectful of the environment and focused on the quality of the products.

Today, this production system, considered by many to be unscientific and almost mystic, is being adopted by many producers in order to increase biodiversity in the vineyard, plant health and environmental sustainability. In this way, the quality and prestige of the product is enhanced. Among the first to adopt this approach was the French winemaker Nicolas Joly, who, since the 1980s, has promoted it worldwide, and was followed in Italy by a number of very different winemakers such as Josko Gravner, Alois Lageder and Stefano Bellotti of Cascina degli Ulivi. Today, more and more producers around the world are following the Steinerian method, promoting various environmental and social sustainability projects, such as the Manincor winery, located in South Tyrol and belonging to the Respekt Biodyn project.

Generally speaking, winemakers who follow this production method manage to enhance and valorise the characteristics of the terroir and the vine. This is because they do not use additives or chemical corrections either in the vineyard or in the cellar, and concentrate their efforts on the perfect health and quality of the raw materials. The enological productions, whether white, red, sweet or sparkling, are characterised by a low presence of sulphites and organoleptic connotations that authentically and spontaneously manifest their rural and countryside origins. Often they present themselves with a rustic and strongly traditional appearance, while other times they have a more elegant and clear-cut character, depending on how the principles of the Steinerian approach are interpreted.

Between the Natural and Spiritual Worlds

The main criticism of this method is that it is not scientific, as it includes concepts and theories from the spiritual world, astrology, divination and various exotic practices. One of the controversial aspects is, for example, the effectiveness of a calendar drawn up by Maria Thun, which has become a bible for many growers around the world. This calendar is developed over a periodic lunar cycle, integrating the Steiner division of the plant into root/leaf/flower/fruit, which can be traced back to the four elements earth/water/air/fire, and the constellations of the zodiac. The days are subdivided according to the moon's movement through the different constellations each year, giving very precise indications of the best times for sowing, homeopathic treatments, rituals and harvests. Being based on cosmic forces that affect the earth's energies, this calendar would not only be limited to agriculture but also to everyday life, providing indications, for example, on the best days for wine tasting.

Other controversial practices, considered by some to be superstitions, are the dynamisation of water, i.e. long stirring in precise directions to prepare treatments, and the monitoring of soil or food crystallisation using reagents to assess crop performance. Today, more and more producers are following these practices and claim that they are effective, despite the fact that the scientific world continues to raise many doubts about the real value of these theories.

The Certifications and Requirements

The most famous and authoritative certification body for biodynamic wine is the Demeter International association, founded in 1928 by Steiner's direct disciples and today equipped with a rigorous and precise regulation which producers must respect in order to obtain the Demeter trademark. However, in the absence of clear and definitive legislation, there are various certification bodies in Europe that authorise producers to use independent organic certifications, including Renaissance and Respekt.

Demeter protocols define precise parameters and standards to be respected for each type of wine, such as Champagne, which is particularly sought-after, but also passito and sparkling wines. The main condition is agronomic management that respects the Steinerian agricultural method: fertilisation and treatment with only organic substances or those of natural origin such as flour or plant extracts, a preference for the green manure technique and integrated pest management. The principle on which the integrated pest management method is based is to preserve the health of the plants and the land by promoting biodiversity, avoiding invasive chemical treatments to directly eliminate insects, bacteria or viruses. Among the recommended practices to achieve this result is the use of horn manure, which is a homeopathic spray preparation obtained by mixing manure, animal parts, quartz powder and vegetable substances stored inside cattle horns, buried and unearthed following a precise calendar.

All grapes must be 100% Demeter certified and harvested by hand. Vinification work in the cellar must also comply with precise rules. The use of machinery that is considered too invasive is not permitted, and conventional and widespread practices such as continuous pressing, reverse osmosis, thermovinification and increasing the alcohol content are prohibited.

Fermentation must take place spontaneously, without inoculation of yeasts or bacteria, with only indigenous yeasts, possibly using a pied de cuve from estate grapes. The use of sulphites is permitted but limited to a minimum, while the maximum permitted levels are lower than those prescribed by organic legislation. When sugar is less than 2 g/l, white wines may not exceed 90 mg/l of sulphur dioxide, while the limit for reds is 70 mg/l. In all other cases there is a reduction of - 50 mg/l of sulphur dioxide compared to what the legislation stipulates for the various types. Only bentonite may be used for clarification, and filtration may not exceed the limit of 1 micrometre. In this way, by limiting human and technological intervention, the most efficient and least invasive practices are encouraged, promoting a strictly territorial production of high quality.

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